Choosing The Lash Designs That Work Best with Different Eye Shapes

Eyelash extensions are one of the hottest items in the beauty and selfcare arena. What was once considered a fad, or a trend has become such a staple in our culture that we all know quite a few people even in our own circles who have lash extensions, and it is GROWING! At Rebel, we consider them part of a healthy lifestyle maintenance and one that is here to stay for a very long time to come! One of the biggest questions clients ask us about lash extensions, is “What is the right style of lash for me?” Choosing the right style of lash extensions is like choosing the right pair of jeans for you, it is not only a very personal decision but also an important one as choosing the right style can be the difference in the lash enhancing all that natural beauty or a style which doesn’t flatter the unique facial and eye structure of the client. So, it’s a big, big deal guys!



Choosing the type of extension


There are many different types of eyelash extensions, and they differ from one to another. That’s why to answer the question of how to choose lash extensions, you must first go through a couple of hoops to find the right style for you! But don’t fret, at Rebel we strive to consult and really work without clients in a partnership that helps identify and build the exact right style of lashes for all of our clients!


As lash artists, we know that what our clients want and ask for isn’t always exactly what’s right for them. This is just a fact of the industry. We see it across all beauty arenas, a client has an idea what they think would work but it may not be the best choice for them! That’s why we should educate ourselves and know better than to simply follow everything that we are asked to do, which can potentially backfire. We don’t want to lose our client’s trust. A client’s trust is paramount and should always be fostered and maintained!


Become familiar and comfortable with your clients. Carefully analyze their general appearance and choose lash extensions that will look most natural for them! If you’re not too sure, here’s a breakdown of all the necessary elements that make up an eyelash extension.


Choosing lash sets and styles


We have found that most clients want a blend of various options, and it is usually a marriage of styles that is on the more conservative side of what they will evolve to get over time. And that’s okay!


The classic lash extension is the most conservative of all of the lash styles. It is simply a 1 to 1 lash style meaning 1 lash extension to 1 natural lash (it could be curved or straight) carefully set onto each individual natural eyelash. This simple solution preserves your client’s original lash volume, while making each hair visibly longer. This type of lash set provides a very subtle enhancement. The thickness of each lash is determined based on the client’s natural eyelash hair which is generally between 0.15 and 0.20 mm. This style is also great for a client who wants a “mascara look” and is still using mascara. And while there are extension safe mascaras on the market, it should only be used on Classic Lash Extension Sets and, in our opinion, to help wean the client off the use of Mascara if they choose to maintain their lash extensions indefinitely.


The Hybrid Lash Extension Set is probably one of the most popular sets of eyelash extensions that Rebel offers. It is a mix of the Classic 1 to 1 lash extensions of the Classic Set mix with 5D fans to create a fuller, more voluminous look in your lashes without going too far into the Volume Realm!


Most clients prefer a more noticeable volume look. There are two volume sets Rebel Offers, The Standard Volume and the Mega Volume Sets. While we do have some clients that get these out of the gate, these are more often lash styles for the more seasoned lash extension wearer. The way this is achieved is by attaching fans of lash hair (two (2D) to five (5D) strands per fan) onto each natural eyelash, at a length of around one to two mm longer than the natural hair. The individual strands are thinner than classic lashes at 0.05–0.07 mm each, but they tend to be thicker at base in order to achieve a darker lash line. A far more dramatic version of this is known as “mega” volume, which uses fans of 0.03 to 0.06 mm diameter fibers in groups of 10–20 lashes per fan. This is a bold, lush option preferred by clients who seek maximum attention to their striking gaze!


There’s always an in-between. By using a combination of up to five-strand fans and classic lash sets, lash artists can craft a unique hybrid look for their client at exactly the preferred and perfect balance.

The varying thicknesses, weights and lengths of eyelash extensions allow lash artists to shape the overall look into recognizable styles. For a natural style, the lash extensions are arranged to reflect the original shape of the eyelashes, with the only difference being their length and volume. By contrast, keeping the extensions at the inner corners of the eye relatively short while significantly increasing the length of the rest of the lash creates a “doll” effect. This is named for their resemblance to the lashes of classic, old-fashioned dolls. This style tends to be very popular with those seeking a full, glamorous look. Another popular variant is the “cat-eye” lash set where shorter lashes are used in the inner corners but then gradually become longer and more flared as they reach the outer corners. This achieves the sexy, alluring look of feline eyes.


The Shape of the Eye


Everyone has their own unique eye shape, and this is the main factor that influences the way eyelash extensions will look on the client. At Rebel, we believe you can wear any lash extension style you want, as long as they are done correctly and done on the right eye style. And this is where the importance of the shape of the eye becomes a vital criteria to identify when consulting with your client on the desired result!



Think of it this way, just as we go into our hair stylists and they work with us to identify the right hairstyle for the shape of our face, we do the exact same thing with eyelash extensions!

Rounded eyes with naturally thick, long lashes can support heavier and darker lash extensions. Those clients with curled lashes tend to benefit most from volume sets without discomfort. Rounded eyes really look best in two distinct eyelash styles, Squirrel and Cat. With the open and fullness of the rounded eye, you really want to accentuate the eye by applying a dramatic edge to the end of the eye creating interest and an exotic flare to the natural shape of the eye!



The more almond-shaped eyes are one of the rare eye types which can really have any lash style applied and it look good. They are well enhanced by doll lashes, particularly emphasizing the middle of the arch of the eyelid. Those with steady, straight lashes will really enhance the shape of this eye bringing an open drama to the eye shape and a refined beauty to clients with more sunken, darker eyes – although in those cases, curled lashes can seem a little too much, with long, straight lashes providing the best effect.



Monolid Eyes and Down Turned Eyes are one of our specialties at Rebel, these two very unique and beautiful eye shapes are ones that are considered difficult to map by some lash artists, but at Rebel, we think they are eye shapes worthy of some pretty cool lash styles! Two of our favorite lash styles look best on Monolid Eyes and those eyelash extension styles are the Squirrel and Doll Eyelash Extension Styles! These two styles serve to really open up the natural curvature of the eye creating a youthful and vibrant look when used to compliment this eye shape! These two styles help create intrigue and drama that just won’t stop and any of our clients who get these two lash styles, simply fall in love...and so do we!


Choose Lash Extensions by Curl



Once you’re done with considerations on length, it’s time to think about curl types. If you’re a trained lash artist, then you already know about the different types of curls. In any case, here’s a summary – there are five basic curls, known as the J, B, C, D and L curls. Some of the more rare curls, shown in the image above aren't commonly used unless for a very specific lash style but they are great references to know what is available and the diversity of what is available!


The J Curl presents the least amount of curl and most natural one of the bunch, but it isn’t commonly used. The B Curl on the other hand is the most common one for straight lashes, with a slight curl. C Curl is the most commonly used curl: it’s dramatic and curly, noticeable but not too drastic!


The D Curl is for those with a bit more of a dramatic natural curl who want to pump up that drama! It’s very visible and will give the most lift, so it’s something to consider. The L Curl is just a C and/or D Curl with a flatter base. It’s more suitable for clients with hooded eyes.

There are more things to consider that will only surface in practice. However, with the breakdown above, you should be able to easily choose lash extensions that will really satisfy your clients!


One last thing – remember to communicate! It’s crucial that your clients receive the best service, one that most benefits them and what they pay for.

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